Mozambique Travelogue

MAPHUTO

We bused into Maphuto from Durban in South Africa. We had no set plans nor any place to stay, we got chatting to a South African guy who was on the bus with us who worked for Oxfam in Mozambique. So on reaching Maphuto we all headed to Mundo's restaurant opposite the South African Consulate for something to eat and to chat. I got out our guide book and tried to phone a few places to make reservations for a room for a couple of nights. No luck, either the numbers where dead or they were all booked up. Feeling a little glum and long in the face, a waiter asked what was wrong, so I told him our sad tale. "No need to worry mate, we have rooms to rent upstairs". Bingo, a bed for the next couple of nights sorted out. Mundo's was always packed with ex-pat and aid workers. They sold great food and cold beer. Almost heaven, when you think we only had to climb a few stairs to reach our beds. They had 4 or 5 rooms on the top of the building, with an outside space shared by the rooms which looked down over the streets below. The room was very clean and well furnished. The next morning we had a wander round Maphuto. We found a large hotel not far up the road from where we were staying that had a nice outside seating area where we had a hot drink and some lovely Portuguese pastries. There wasn't that much else to do or see there. We did manage to find the location of the bus station we needed for the next morning, but tickets where only sold on the day of travel.

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Richard wrote the above piece, but I just wanted to add that not all of our memories of Mozambique are good. The reason being that we were viciously attacked by three machette wielding nutters. This happened one lovely, bright, sunny day as we were strolling back to our hotel after purchasing a couple of souvenirs. I guess I should be thankful that they didn't kill us, although I am certain that this was their original plan. A couple of people in a passing car did try to help us, but they too were attacked, and fled. But I am certain that their attempt to help us saved our lives, as our attackers were now eager to flee the scene, they didn't want to hang around long enough to do us any serious harm. It was ironic really as we had already visited Mozambique and left unharmed, we had only gone back briefly to buy something to remind us of the place! After the attack we were taken into a nearby house, it belonged to a very nice man who was a diplomat. He was having lunch with some friends and they invited me join them, I was too shaken so we sat and chatted. He told me that someone had been shot dead at the exact spot where we were attacked, which sent a shiver down my spine. Before I knew what was happening Richard was whisked off in a police car to try and find the guys who attacked us, they were not found. Neither of us were concerned about our possessions that were stolen but we were advised to inform our insurers. Nothing ever came of this as the police were so unhelpful, even with the help of the British Embassy we were unable to get a crime report which we needed to give to our insurance company, oh well we were alive and that was all that mattered. I guess we should have listened to the guy we hired a car from in Durban South Africa. When we said we were off to Mozambique he was surprised, and said don't bother. He said why on earth did we want to go there, didn't we know what they do to tourists there ... well we do now! I don't like to write anything too negative, but felt that I had to write about this. Apparently Maphuto is very dangerous! We are always very careful when travelling, as we are anywhere, but unless we were armed with a gun there was nothing we could do during this time. Apart from this awful experience, Mozambique would still not have got a thumbs up from me. It was wet and dull every day, and all of the different accommodation we stayed in was so horrible, small, dark, damp rooms. In fact one of the places we stayed the bed was so uncomfortable we had to dismantle it and sleep on the mattress on the floor. I now that Mozambique is becoming a popular holiday destination, with lots of money being invested refurbishing and building luxury hotels. The fact that there have been several sightings of high profile celebrities in and around Maphuto will no doubt lead to it being labelled as 'the next big thing', a wonderful holiday hotspot! I guess tourists will be and feel safe within the confines of the five star resorts, no guns required, although I would say go unarmed at your own risk! I am sure that many people do visit Mozambique without incident every year, and I guess during all of our travels over the years statistically it was inevitable that at one point we would be in some kind of trouble. That said, it still doesn't make me feel any better! Even to this day I am so much more wary of being out, even in my tiny village here in France! Thankfully we had enjoyed so many wonderful places before this incident, as it has made travelling ever so slightly less attractive to me. Thankfully I am a very happy home body!